The Panteão Nacional occupies the seventeenth-century church of Santa Engrácia in the Alfama district of Lisbon, on the Campo de Santa Clara above the Tagus. Begun in 1682 to the design of João Antunes — Portugal's first major baroque architect — the building is laid out as a Greek cross under a vast central dome, faced inside and out with the coloured Portuguese marbles that became a signature of the late seventeenth-century Lisbon school. The original Santa Engrácia parish church on the site had been destroyed by a windstorm in 1681, and the rebuild was conceived from the outset as one of the most ambitious baroque interiors in Portugal.
Construction took an extraordinarily long time. The dome remained unfinished through the eighteenth, nineteenth and most of the twentieth century, and the church was only formally completed in 1966, two hundred and eighty-four years after it was begun. The Portuguese language preserves the memory of this delay in the idiom 'obras de Santa Engrácia' — 'works of Santa Engrácia' — used to describe any project that drags on indefinitely. The decree converting Santa Engrácia into the National Pantheon was signed in 1916, and the first interments and cenotaphs followed in the years immediately after. The building has served as Portugal's official memorial church ever since.
The interments and cenotaphs are the heart of the visit. The empty memorial — a cenotaph — of Luís de Camões, Portugal's epic poet, stands inside the dome despite the fact that his actual remains were lost centuries ago. Real burials include the writers Almeida Garrett and Aquilino Ribeiro; the poet Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen; Manuel de Arriaga, the first elected President of the Portuguese Republic; the resistance leader Humberto Delgado; the fado singer Amália Rodrigues, interred in 2001 in a ceremony watched by much of the country; and the footballer Eusébio da Silva Ferreira, transferred to the Pantheon in 2015 after his death the previous year.
Climb to the upper galleries and out onto the rooftop terrace and the building turns into one of the great Lisbon viewpoints. The 360° panorama from the base of the dome takes in the red-tile rooftops of Alfama, the Tagus estuary, the cruise port, the Castle of São Jorge across the valley, the 25 de Abril Bridge, and the Cristo Rei statue on the far bank. The dome stands at roughly eighty metres at its peak — modest by European cathedral standards, but high enough above the Alfama hillside to command a view that few visitors expect from a church interior.